Background information
It’s hard to believe, but toe shoes are now considered stylish
by Stephanie Vinzens
Uggs: from surf shoe to cult boot
18.1.2022
Translation: Veronica Bielawski
The most controversial footwear of all is back in the forefront: Uggs. Here’s how the ugly-snuggly boot managed to achieve that which many shoe brands dream of. And why we owe it all to surfers.
The second temperatures drop, Ugg boots march their way to the front. The boots have stealthily gone from an entertaining trend to a wardrobe staple. Whether you're picking up fresh buns at the bakery around the corner, taking your dog out for walkies, or grabbing a quick breath of fresh air outside your home office, these plush kicks are extremely practical. They’re easy to slip on, keep your feet warm for hours on end and are light as a feather compared to conventional winter boots. It’s difficult to believe that Australian beach boys are behind these cosy boots. Let’s start at the beginning.
At the feet of surfers
It’s the seventies. Australian surfers have just discovered sheepskin shoes, which were originally worn by shepherds. They use the beach boots in the comparatively mild winter to keep their feet toasty after surfing. Surfer Shane Stedman sees potential in the booties. Without further ado, he starts designing these boots himself and selling them to locals for a handful of Australian dollars. As many people’s first reaction to the boots is «ugh», he registers the trademarks «Ugh» and «Ugh Boot».
Shane’s surfer buddy Brian Smith eventually moves to California. There, he keeps getting asked about his shoes by Americans, prompting Shane to sell Brian the trademark. In 1978, Brian successfully launches the booties under the name «Ugg Holding» (later: Ugg Australia or Ugg) in the Golden State. At the time, the shoes are, in fact, worn mainly by male surfers. It takes a while before women discover them.
At the feet of celebrities
Before their big breakthrough, Uggs are mainly reserved for athletes. In addition to the US Olympic team (1994), Smith also equips the San Diego Chargers football team with the boots a year later. Eventually, the California-based Deckers Outdoor Company (which sells Tevas among other products) becomes aware of the beach boot. Since the company’s sandals sell poorly in the cold months, it needs a shoe to bridge the winter lull. That same year, in 1995, Brian sells his rights to Deckers for several million US dollars.
The boots, now known as Ugg Australia Boots, sell like hot cakes. Doug Otto, the head of Deckers Outdoor Company, has the brand registered and protected in over 100 countries. In addition, he continuously expands it. He wants to turn Ugg Australia into a premium brand. He starts targeting luxury boutiques and celebrities. His strategy works. Soon, stars and starlets like singer Britney Spears, top model Kate Moss, hotel heiress Paris Hilton, presenter Oprah Winfrey and actress Pamela Anderson are making the plush boots socially acceptable away from the beach. After Baywatch star Pamela Anderson wears the shoes in an episode, sales skyrocket.
The rise of Uggs is unstoppable in the 2000s. Every It girl owns at least one pair, and their fan base follows suit. Unlike the designer bags these celebrities carry, the boots are affordable. With that, the lambskin boots spread like wildfire even among «normal» people. But as with most things, Ugg Australia’s heyday comes to an end as new shoe trends make their entrance.
At the feet of (almost) everyone
And yet Uggs have never vanished. After a short drop in popularity, the company takes a decisive step in the right direction. Instead of sinking into self-pity, it makes use of the ebb to expand its product range. Today, the brand manufactures much more than just its cosy lambskin boots. Leather boots, dresses, gloves, sandals, flip-flops, slippers and clogs are just some of the products that contribute to the company’s success. Thanks to partnerships with designers such as Phillip Lim and Jeremy Scott as well as new collections, Ugg further boosts sales with limited edition models.
Black sheep on your feet
The unfortunate side of success: imitators are always rankling with the brand. Ugg isn’t considered a brand name in Australia, but a generic term for sheepskin boots. As a result, many non-original Ugg Australia boots are circulating the market as «Uggs». Decker’s efforts to stop Australian plants that have been producing lambskin boots for several decades have failed.
In addition, there are cheap counterfeits made of fake fur being hawked as Uggs. Ugg does its best to prevent counterfeiting with the help of private detectives, customs officers and lawyers. But as long as the cult shoes remain in vogue, so will the market for counterfeits.
This season, the classic boot is as hyped as it was 20 years ago. The pandemic is making us nostalgic. Influencers and regular users alike on Instagram and TikTok are rekindling the 2000s with the «Y2K» trend – Y for year, 2k for 2 kilo, or 2000. Along with spaghetti-strap tops, low-rise jeans, baggy pants and bandanas, Uggs are the must-haves of the hour. A collection of comfy items that have proved themselves in the past. The Ugg boot is certainly one of them, which explains why, every year, they paint the town chestnut again.
When I’m not exploring the depths of the sea as an open water diver, I enjoy plunging into the world of fashion. On the streets of Paris, Milan and New York is where I keep my eyes peeled for the latest trends. And I’ll show you how to take them from the catwalk to your everyday life.
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