Guide
Onion principle: every man should remember these 3 layering tactics
by Stephanie Vinzens
Over or under? What should you do with that collar on your dress shirt?
31.10.2022
Wearing your collar over your blazer or sweater is a no-go – at least, that’s what they say. Because daring such a look is a risk. But one that just might be worth taking.
It’s the little things that complete a look. The right shoes, the right amount of accessories – or the way you wear your shirt collar. And if a sweater or blazer is going on top of that dress shirt, the natural question is: should your collar go under or over that second layer? As so often in fashion, the answer is: it’s a matter of taste. And as is so often the case in fashion, there’s a clear consensus on what works and what doesn’t.
Source: Instagram: @teachingmensfashion
Source: Instagram: @thecarolinelin
A collar that extends over the neckline or lapel is – in the eyes of the majority – definitely a faux pas. Just look at the numerous Reddit discussions on the topic, as well as a small survey of my co-workers. The consensus? An exposed collar looks out of place at best, sloppy at worst. Particularly if you’re wearing a blazer. Here’s how my co-worker Nati reacted to my mentioning of wearing a collar over: «I automatically think of an open shirt, lots of chest hair and gold chains.»
Mafiosi, disco and the ‘70s
Al Pacino as Tony Montana in the ‘80s gangster flick «Scarface» is probably to blame for this association. Or perhaps it’s another iconic Tony who conquered pop culture with his dance moves a decade earlier – Tony Manero from «Saturday Night Fever», played by John Travolta. Maybe it’s also in part the doing of the Bee Gees, who contributed the soundtrack to the disco cult film and are just as much a fan of flared collars as the two Tonys. Or maybe we’ve the whole '70s to thank, for that matter. In no other decade were collars so extravagant. And in no other decade were they worn so naturally over sweaters and blazers.
Today, the look exudes a retro vibe. Therein lies the attraction – and the problem. Badly styled, it makes you look like you just got back from Mardi Gras. However, with a little fashion sense, you can give your outfit a touch of cool and a pinch of eccentricity. That’s why an exposed collar can still be used to make a statement on the runway. Whether rocky like Saint Laurent’s designs or minimalistic like Jil Sander’s.
The combo of a turtleneck with an open shirt on top can be especially elegant. For an appropriate dose of retro, pair a print shirt with a classic suit. You can pull off a casual everyday outfit with an oversize blazer and a loose-fitting blouse.
Source: Instagram: @thecarolinelin
Source: Instagram: @goodasgoldblum
As for the collar-over-sweater combo, you’re less likely to look like a mobster on your way to the disco. But rather like a little boy in school uniform. Or his quirky teacher. The look surprisingly works best when you embrace such clichés. You’ll appear a little more relaxed and less preppy if you leave your shirt unbuttoned at the top.
Source: Instagram: @goodasgoldblum
Source: Instagram: @anneorion
Verdict
Wearing your collar over a sweater or blazer is definitely not a fashion no-go – but it sure is polarising. If you want to play it safe, you’d best keep your collar ends tucked in. That’s the classic way to wear them and probably your only option for interviews in banking or accounting. But if you’re in the mood to experiment with a palette of fashionable looks, don’t hesitate to put you and your collar in the spotlight.
Has endless love for shoulder pads, Stratocasters and sashimi, but a limited tolerance for bad impressions of her Eastern Swiss dialect.
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