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Fashion Lingo: what does a duster coat have to do with dust?

Laura Scholz
6.4.2023
Translation: Eva Francis

The fashion world is brimming with terms – the meaning of which are sometimes far from obvious. Duster coat, for example. Do you know the story behind its name? Does is have anything to do with dust? Read on to find out.

Somewhere in this delicate bubble between when the calendar says it’s spring and when it actually feels like spring, when the weather conditions are as erratic as avid Tiktok users, there it is: the window of opportunity for so-called between-season jackets. This ominous species includes leather jackets, blousons, denim jackets, ... and duster coats. The latter are light coats that wave gently around your body in every spring breeze. There’s nothing dusty about them – even if their name suggests otherwise. So why are they called duster coats in the first place?

Protecting horsemen

Of course, this coat doesn’t attract dust, but was originally made to keep dust away from its wearer. More precisely, the dust that’s kicked up when riding a horse or driving a carriage. Duster coats were once worn on horseback. Airy, light, resistant and shielding against dirt and moisture, they were the ideal top layer for any busy man on a horse. A high slit at the back and leg straps that held the billowing fabric in place left hardly a need unfulfilled. Another feature of the original duster coat was an over-the-shoulder short cape.

Today, except for said slit, almost all characteristic features have disappeared – even button borders are often omitted – and duster coats are more famous for being discreet and minimalist.

A duster coat designed by Gucci.
A duster coat designed by Gucci.
Source: Spotlight
Blogger @rasuuls wearing a black duster coat.
Blogger @rasuuls wearing a black duster coat.
Source: Instagram
Influencer @jessalizzi has opted for classic beige.
Influencer @jessalizzi has opted for classic beige.
Source: Instagram

So without a horse underneath it or other significant features, how can you recognise this popular between-season jacket? The answer is as simple as the design itself. These are the characteristics of duster coats – and what makes them different from trench coats:

  • plain collar without lapels
  • no details such as a belt, collars or patch pockets
  • at least calf length
  • light materials such as linen or cotton
  • high slit at the back

Now that you’ve dusted off your fashion vocab, nothing can go wrong if you buy a duster coat. Unless, of course, you miss the short time window of transition jackets. Even knowing the fashion word ABC by heart can’t save you from that.

In the «Fashion Lingo» series, I try to shed light on the dark that is language in the fashion industry. If you occasionally end up lost in translation, I’m sure I can help – drop me a line in the comments.

Header image: Spotlight

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