Patrick's Perfumes – patchouli isn’t just for hippies
13.9.2023
Translation: Veronica Bielawski
Perfumes are works of art, perfumers are artists and I’m a collector of their creations. Today, it’s all about patchouli. Tom Ford, Yves Saint Laurent and By Kilian interpret the «hippie fragrance» in very different ways.
Summer 1967 was the Summer of Love. The hippie movement was headed towards its peak with the Monterey International Pop Festival in San Francisco. And Scott McKenzie provided the anthem:
Patchouli isn’t for hippies only
What did the Summer of Love smell like? Incense and patchouli, of course! But the plant was popular in England long before bell-bottoms and the peace sign came along. British women especially appreciated the distinctive aroma as early as the 19th century.
Traditional Asian medicine, on the other hand, uses patchouli oil primarily as an anti-inflammatory and astringent for skin conditions, as well as for snake- and insect bites. The plant was often used as an anti-moth agent and placed between the layers of Indian and Pakistani fabric shipments. That’s how it came to Europe.
Today, patchouli oil is one of the most important fragrances in the perfume industry. It can be found in countless men’s and women’s fragrances.
Source: Shutterstock / Stephen Orsillo
Black Orchid by Tom Ford
Back in 2006, Tom Ford created a timeless classic with this fragrance. The noses behind it are David Apel and Pierre Negrin. Originally intended for a female audience, Black Orchid quickly became popular with men as well. Despite the name and the fact that this fragrance includes notes of truffles, chocolate and black currant, among others, patchouli plays a leading role. If I had to guess what the quintessential 1967 hippie smelled like, I’d put my money on Black Orchid.
Tuxedo by Yves Saint Laurent
Then came Tuxedo, the alternative from Yves Saint Laurent. This classic unisex fragrance by Juliette Karagueuzoglou has been around since 2015 and belongs to the «Le Vestiaire des Parfums» series. Created with the creative heritage of Yves Saint Laurent in mind, this collection consists of high-end, edgy signature fragrances. Each of them is inspired by one of the brand’s iconic products, materials or addresses.
The top notes here are violet leaf, coriander and bergamot. The heart notes are rose, black pepper and lily of the valley, while the base consists of patchouli, bourbon vanilla and ambergris. If Black Orchid by Tom Ford leaves behind a dark and somewhat wicked impression, Tuxedo by YSL can best be summed up in two words: pure elegance.
Straight to Heaven from By Kilian
Up to round things off is what’s probably the most masculine fragrance within this article. It’s from By Kilian and is aptly named Straight to Heaven. The nose behind this perfume is Sidonie Lancesseur. She created Straight to Heaven in 2007 for Killian Hennessy. The fragrance belongs to «The Cellars», referring to the Hennessy heir’s childhood. As he states: «I have vivid childhood memories of the Hennessy cognac cellars. The smell of oak barrels drenched in eaux de vie has always remained with me. It’s spirit lives in many of my creations.»
As it does in Straight to Heaven, where notes of rum, dried fruits and cedar play a leading role alongside patchouli, among others.
My name is Patrick. Bardelli, not Süskind Like the author of the book «perfume». Nevertheless, I’m also a great lover of perfumes and I regularly write about good and bad fragrances. Want to enjoy my literary odour? Follow my author profile. Or let’s say: follow your nose. And remember: all I’m doing here is giving my subjective opinion.
Header image: Patrick Bardelli
Patrick Bardelli
Senior Editor
Patrick.Bardelli@digitecgalaxus.chFrom radio journalist to product tester and storyteller, jogger to gravel bike novice and fitness enthusiast with barbells and dumbbells. I'm excited to see where the journey'll take me next.
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